ALPINE GEAR
Preparing for high altitude climbing:
Physical Prep
Alpine climbs, particularly those occurring within complex glacerized terrains can present climbers with extraordinary physical and mental challenges . Both Satopanth and Kang Yatse-1 are high altitude mountains (7075m and 6401m respectively) and both include moderate to steep icy slopes. Therefore, muscle strength, endurance, and cardiovascular fitness are essential for a successful experience (read: less overall suffering!). Good general strength training regimes can include rock climbing, simple low to moderate impact weight training for the large muscle groups (moderate-high reps with low-moderate weight). If you're going to be doing a lot of front-pointing (steep ice), don't forget to work your calves! Tossing in the occasional dose of old school push-up, pull-ups, sits-ups is time well spent. NOTE: Typically more training-related-suffering in the gym, at home, on the mountain trails and on the rocks generally equates to less suffering (and actual enjoyment!) in the big mountains.
Good cardiovascular workouts are varied. I try my best to match the type of work I expect my body to experience on the climb. Therefore, my favorite workouts includes backpacking, hiking, and trekking at the highest available altitudes (with a loaded backpack or daypack). Here in southern Arizona, I can train between 6500 and 8800 feet for most of a days workout, and top out at 9200 feet. In addition to this, throughout the work-week I will enjoy cross-training with some bike-riding 10-30 miles minimum riding distance. I use a clunky mountain bike to thrash up into the Tucson foothills; high-friction, fat-tire rides add the much-desired struggle and pain to the workout! When I can't access the mountain trails during the workweek, I'll head to the gym and jump onto a stair-master or treadmill making sure to ramp up to high resistance after a slow warmup. I never forget to stretch anymore.
REST! The importance of rest days cannot be overstated. Generally, the muscle and cardiovascular training should consume at least 5 days / week; 6 days if you are already quite fit. Workout days also have an ebb and flow of training intensity. It's a good idea to mix up low-moderate, and high intensity training days....and always toss in at least one full rest day each week. The commitment to, and consistency of your training regime is extremely important, and in some part a reflection of your commitment to have the most enjoyable experience on the climb. Nevertheless, I do not want to become so attached to any regime that I beat myself up for missing a days workout, or cannot complete the total miles on a scheduled hike because of other life commitments. The benefits of long-term training is cumulative, and your body and mind will not only forgive yourself for missing out on some training, but likely reward you with stronger workouts in the following days. It's also fun to mix up the training schedule now and again; adversity and the unexpected are excellent reminders of what the mountain world routinely dishes out.
A final tip is to just stay healthy. Arguably the biggest crux of any climb is simply not getting sick, not twisting an ankle, straining tendons to failure, etc.. This includes the months/weeks before the climb and during the climb. More than one climbing trip has been in part diminished or never got off the ground due to illness and broken bones. ...How does he know this stuff :-|
Physical Prep
Alpine climbs, particularly those occurring within complex glacerized terrains can present climbers with extraordinary physical and mental challenges . Both Satopanth and Kang Yatse-1 are high altitude mountains (7075m and 6401m respectively) and both include moderate to steep icy slopes. Therefore, muscle strength, endurance, and cardiovascular fitness are essential for a successful experience (read: less overall suffering!). Good general strength training regimes can include rock climbing, simple low to moderate impact weight training for the large muscle groups (moderate-high reps with low-moderate weight). If you're going to be doing a lot of front-pointing (steep ice), don't forget to work your calves! Tossing in the occasional dose of old school push-up, pull-ups, sits-ups is time well spent. NOTE: Typically more training-related-suffering in the gym, at home, on the mountain trails and on the rocks generally equates to less suffering (and actual enjoyment!) in the big mountains.
Good cardiovascular workouts are varied. I try my best to match the type of work I expect my body to experience on the climb. Therefore, my favorite workouts includes backpacking, hiking, and trekking at the highest available altitudes (with a loaded backpack or daypack). Here in southern Arizona, I can train between 6500 and 8800 feet for most of a days workout, and top out at 9200 feet. In addition to this, throughout the work-week I will enjoy cross-training with some bike-riding 10-30 miles minimum riding distance. I use a clunky mountain bike to thrash up into the Tucson foothills; high-friction, fat-tire rides add the much-desired struggle and pain to the workout! When I can't access the mountain trails during the workweek, I'll head to the gym and jump onto a stair-master or treadmill making sure to ramp up to high resistance after a slow warmup. I never forget to stretch anymore.
REST! The importance of rest days cannot be overstated. Generally, the muscle and cardiovascular training should consume at least 5 days / week; 6 days if you are already quite fit. Workout days also have an ebb and flow of training intensity. It's a good idea to mix up low-moderate, and high intensity training days....and always toss in at least one full rest day each week. The commitment to, and consistency of your training regime is extremely important, and in some part a reflection of your commitment to have the most enjoyable experience on the climb. Nevertheless, I do not want to become so attached to any regime that I beat myself up for missing a days workout, or cannot complete the total miles on a scheduled hike because of other life commitments. The benefits of long-term training is cumulative, and your body and mind will not only forgive yourself for missing out on some training, but likely reward you with stronger workouts in the following days. It's also fun to mix up the training schedule now and again; adversity and the unexpected are excellent reminders of what the mountain world routinely dishes out.
A final tip is to just stay healthy. Arguably the biggest crux of any climb is simply not getting sick, not twisting an ankle, straining tendons to failure, etc.. This includes the months/weeks before the climb and during the climb. More than one climbing trip has been in part diminished or never got off the ground due to illness and broken bones. ...How does he know this stuff :-|